Plesivica
The history of this extremely charming region is similar to historical events of Northern and North-Western wine-growing regions of Croatia. The Church, nobility as well as the wealthy towns of Samobor and Jastrebarsko, have contributed to the cultivation of grapes, from the Middle Ages until the present day. Many vineyards, situated on predominantly small plots, have maintained old traditions of supporting grapes with wooden stakes. Plesivica region is famous for the growing of a diverse varieties, ranging from traditional indigenous varieties to several varieties of American origin, such as Noah, Isabelle and Delaware. Vineyards/Winemakers focused on varietal wines are dominated by renowned international varietals such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Sylvaner, Grasevina, Rizvanac and Portugieser. Traditional local varietals, such as Sipelj, Plavac zuti, Kraljevina, Belina and Moslavac are only to be found in vineyards with diversified varieties.The Plesevica region is famous for its significant number of quality winemakers, able to compete with the most renowned brands.
Typically continental climatic conditions, with cold winters and abundant precipitation, are mostly suitable for the more aromatic varietals, such as Sauvignon and Muskat, which regularly achieve outstanding results. However, Riesling, with its significantly distinct characteristics, shows finest results in this region, especially when grown in the most suitable areas. The most appropriate agriculture areas of the region are mostly situated very high above sea level and are distinguished by a “healthy” air circulation. Vineyards are usually situated on very steep slopes, providing an ideal blend of grapes and solar rays. This is a perfect natural environment for Riesling, a variety which requires both a cold climate and direct contact with sun. In this region, Riesling is represented in three very distinctive, but equally attractive styles. The first, a part of the regular vintage, is humbler in character, with a fruity flavor, reminding of peaches and apples. Its aroma also shows mild hints of wild flowers. It produces light to medium brisk wines of a refreshing flavor. The second style is more complex. Grapes are harvested only after reaching high sugar levels, with flavors gaining in complexity. The fruity aroma is more mature, reminding of deliciously stewed peaches and apricots. Floral shades, with the prevailing aroma of locust, have become sweeter. Due to high levels of alcohol and substantial extracts, flavors are full-bodied, thus producing a strong, rich and delicious wine. As the product of a late or elective harvest, the third style of Riesling is dessert wine, with an intense scent of locust honey and apricot jam and a full-bodied, long-lasting aftertaste. A single varietyl, producing three completely different, but equally top-quality styles in such a small region, deserves the title of champion of the Plesivica region. Portugieser, another leading varietal of the region, is perhaps not of the same top quality as Riesling, but the local winemakers did not intend to cultivate another varietal with similar characteristics. Portugieser is a young, frisky wine with very short life-span and is therefore best used before the end of winter. This gentle, raspberry flavored red wine with a mildly sour aroma is bottled each November under the same brand. Each and every winemaker sells his supplies, one month after they have been placed on the market. All regional winemakers decided to brand this varietal together and they have produced a very successful, frisky and sociable wine which makes Portugieser one of the leading varietals of the Plesivica region.
Ivo Dubokovic – serious wines from garge
Ivo Dubokovic is certainly one of the pioneers of garage wineries and certainly one of the most serious ones in Croatia. Dubokovic vineyards are located on the island Hvar, one of the warmest and sunniest islands in the Adriatic spreadinog over microlocalities of Sveti Nikola, Sjevernih Teras and Medvid bod. Soil structure ranges from, limestone pebble, white sand with small percantage of red soil, giving an ideal nutrition source to indigenous varieties such as Mali Plavac Drnekusa, Parac, Kuc, Bogdanusa and Marastina. Dubokovic prefers that his wines are dense, bold, with a fuller body and structure, therefore he leaves grapes on vines till late September through the October. His opus is truly diverse and covers nearly all styles of wine. From light and crisp dry white wine called “Moj Otok” (my island), medium and full bodied wines called “Moja M” (My M, stands for Marastina) and “Moja B” (stands for Bogdanusa), young and opulent Rose, to red wines starting with fresh wine called “Laganini” (take it easy) slightly heavier called “2718 hours of sunshine in a bottle”, followed by exceptional, rich and masculine “6009 years ago” to the cult wines “Medvjedica” (feamle Bear) and “Medvid” (male Bear). Dessert wines are represented by Prvi Poljubac (First Kiss) and Don Peter.
Ivo’s approach to vinification techniques are rather unusual and innovative for traditional southern Croatia. White wines undergo through thet two or three days maceration and followed by fermentation in used wooden barrels after which Sur lie maturing is comming, with the exception of “Moj Otok” which is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Red wines are macerating nine to fourteen days, where for last two days “6009 years ago” goes through a two-day Ripaso method..”Medvid” and “6009 years ago” are aging in medium toasted barrique barrels. “Prvi Poljubac” and “Don Petar” are made by traditional Dalmatian method of must reduction (slow cooking of must, in order to concentrate the flavors and denser the structure). Dubokovic wines are not filtered.
On my ideal dinner, certainly be served “Medvid”, “Medvjedica”, “6009 years ago”, and “Prvi Poljubac”
Frano Milos – Guardian of Mali Plavac
I will start the story with the lyrics of artisan winemaker, that my wife and I visited just before New Year, “In the hues of colors pour through the glass of reflecting shades in motion. In their layers they narrate speak, whisper of time of hardship. Down the glass rims tender and slow tears arise as if from a different world they derive, they slowly descend, slide, closing the circle, talking”, his name is Frano Milos from Ponikve, village located at the Peljesac peninsula.
Frano is a true lover and “guardian” of Mali Plavac in its prime sense; wild yet seductive, robust yet subtle, bold but at the same time gentle and soft. Wine of contrasts, sun, stony soil and love. His vineyards are stretching across the southern terraces of Peljesac, cut into the amphitheater open towards the Adriatic sea. Temperatures during summer are very often exceeding 40C, and rain is rarely visiting this part of Croatia. This specific micro-climate appeared to be perfect for Mali Plavac. Interestingly, the harvest often takes place at the end of August, and due to high temperatures wines are usually exceeding 14.5% alcohol. Nevertheless, you don’t have to worry that the wines will be harsh and unbalanced. Alluvial / rocky soil rich in calcium, and fact that rain is extremely rare, forcing vines to “work” for existence, therefore the concentration of color pigmentation, flavors and tannins are at the highest level, without jeopardizing acidity level in wines. Milos wines, unlike the vast majority of Peljesac’s wines, are easily aging up to 15 years, holding essential vitality, rich and lasting aromas and flavors, and the desire to pour a second glass. I don’t want this to sound like a paid advertisement, but Frano Milos wines are exceptional example of Mali Plavac from Peljesac.
