Northern Dalmatia

Northern Dalmatia spreads over large area with diverse climatic conditions. However, the same grape varieties are grown across the entire region. Among the white varieties Marastina and Debit are dominant, while the most typical red varieties are Plavina, followed by Babic, Lasina, Merlot, Syrah and Grenache. Opposite to all expectations, both white and red wines of the region are rich in acidity. Rather than producing full-bodied wines with high level of tannin, Northern Dalmatia produce wines which are mostly fresh, light, soft and smooth, such as Plavina and Marastina. However, Northern Dalmatia offers some different varieties, which are low in quantity but still of significant importance. This specifically relates to selected locations, such as Primosten vineyards, well known for Babic, as well as Promina and Oklaj regions, for their Debit.

Babic is a indigenous variety of Northern Dalmatia. Its name can directly be related to the island of Pag or the Sibenik region. Babic, when cultivated on the fertile soil of the coastal region or hinterland, produces wines of average quality. However, Babic achieves best results if cultivated in coarse rocky soil and exposed to sun, despite producing low crops. Babic preserves acidity well, reducing the strong influence of alcohol. Its high levels of tannin and rich extract give the wine its distinctive and delicious flavor. Babic has shown very good results when aged in oak barrels which contribute to its flavor and softens the tannins. High quality Babic wines have lately showed an increase in market share. Babic is, for certain, the leading variety of Northern Dalmatia.

Debit is another Northern Dalmatian variety which might become extremely popular at a national level in the future. Although its potential has not yet been fully discovered, several very good wines of various styles show its versatile characteristics and high quality. The thick skinned grapes, relatively high level of acidity and good ability to generate sugar, make Marastina suitable for the production of wines of different styles. Due to its rich extract, Debit wines are suitable for maturing in barrels and on sur lie, giving to this variety more complex characteristics. Debit other side is visible in average vintages, with its harmonious and refreshing citrus fruits flavors with pronounced minerality.

International varieties are grown in the northern parts of the region. Merlot is grown in the regions of Zadar, Benkovac and Stankovci for a number of years, while Cabernet Sauvignon is a relatively new variety, whereas Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault have been present in the region for more than three decades.  Northern Dalmatian wines, produced from previously mentioned varieties,  are showing similar characteristics to the wines of Southern Rhône.

Central Dalmatia

The starts of Croatian viticulture and wine production have their roots in this precise region. Ancient Greek villages on the islands of Vis and Brac earned their reputation at a very early stage, which rightfully entitles them to be the foundation of Croatian wine growing. Coins with images of grapes and goblets as well as numerous archaeological discoveries related to wine consumption prove that viticulture was of utmost importance to local inhabitants. Viticulture spread rapidly throughout the region and continued one of the most important aspects of agriculture. At the time of Ancient Rome, its importance rapidly increased. Even the first Croatian pioneers converted from mead to wine rather easily. The whole region is dominated by rather similar soil types and climatic conditions. With low precipitation and very hot dry summers, the climate is typically Mediterranean, whilst soil varieties are represented by various types of red and brown soil, covering mostly limestone. However, specific characteristics of the most prominent individual spots, such as Ivan Dolac and Sveta Nedjelja on the island of Hvar, are more important than general conditions. Both are situated on slopes in the vicinity of sea and are well exposed to solar rays. The sea provides a stabilizing influence by preventing any too significant temperature change. In addition, any position with an open view to the sea ensures regular air circulation, which is of essential importance in viticulture. The thin layer of fertile soil over limestone enables grapes to survive but not to bear large quantities. Hence, the quality is ensured naturally through small grapes and small total income, without any human intervention. The most prominent local varietal is Plavac mali. Although the best crops are traditionally cultivated on the island of Hvar, the situation has recently slightly changed in favor of the islands of Brac  and Vis. Although this particular varietal often has insufficient levels of acidity, its extract is significantly richer as sugar levels accumulate more easily. Hence, the wines easily reach an alcohol level of 15%. Wines produced from Plavac mali have simply wonderful and very distinct flavor which makes them easy to distinguish. They are often infused with a certain level of sweetness, especially in aftertaste, which is not to be confused with sugar residue. This sweetness is present due to several reasons, the first being a specific ratio of high alcoholic percentage, which, just as with any other strong alcoholic drink, creates an illusion of sweetness. Secondly, Plavac mali contains a specific type of tannin which together with a very small sugar residue creates a specific, sweet taste. Plavac mali, as with Babic, generates an abundance of crop especially when planted in karst fields. Therefore, the vineyard position is of utmost importance. Another varietal of major importance for this region is Vugava. Although this very famous white varietal has a very long historical background, today it is to be found only on the island of Vis but in insufficient quantities. Vugava wines used to be very popular due to their easy accumulation of sugar levels and high percentage alcohol level. The latter is an excellent natural preservative which enabled Vugava wines to be transported long distances due to an easier and longer preservation limit. Unfortunately, those characteristics are not sought any more. On the contrary, crisp light wines have recently gained in importance. However, being full-bodied is not the only advantage for Vugava – it also provides its wines with a refined flavor as well as with a thick, rich extract. Therefore, Vugava is expected to regain one of the leading positions in the following years. This region has many other local varietals to offer which might also be considered typical. They are mostly produced on small areas and have been adapted for centuries in order to provide better quality. Unfortunately, due to a ‘trendy’ wine market their future is not particularly bright. One good example would be the varietal Dobricic from the island of Solta, which is, at this time, cultivated and sold in small quantities, as a table wine. On the open market, it is to be found only as a blend with Plavac mali or Plavina. Its major role is to improve color as it is abundant in antocians. It has been proved that Crljenak, produced in Kasteli, is of the same varietal as Zinfandel, a fact which saved it from extinction not a moment too soon. White varietals Bogdanusa and Prc as well as the red Drnekusa are produced on the island of Hvar and their time has yet to come, despite large vineyard areas being planted with Plavac. Zlatarica, a neglected white varietal of extraordinary quality, is produced in the terrain near the towns of Split and Omis. It generates crops on a regular basis and is excellent in accumulating sugar and also preserving acids. Despite showing excellent qualities, as with Posip, today it is used only as an additive to other wines.

Southern Dalmatia

Viticulture and wine production was introduced by Greek colonists. The most prominent centers at that time were the Greek settlements in Cavtat (Epidaurus) and island Korcula (Korkyra). The long-standing tradition of the region has been preserved in the areas of Korcula and Peljesac to the present day almost without interruption. However, due to turbulent historical events and the influence of the Ottoman Empire, the coastal region suffered substantial damage. During those troubled times, the Republic of Dubrovnik played the leading role in the continuation of viticulture. Wine-growing was highly regarded by its citizens, which may be seen in numerous documents and city laws regarding wine production and trade. Those historical events play a part in the development and protection of many indigenous varietals, most of which are currently grown in the area. The climate of the region is typically Mediterranean, though noticeably more humid and considerably cooler when compared with the islands of Central Dalmatia. Therefore, when compared with Central Dalmatia, wines of the region show noticeable variances in style, even when considering the same varietals, such as Plavac mali or Marastina, which are in the area often referred to as Rukatac, are the most well-known varieties of Southern Dalmatia. Plavac mali shows two very distinct styles. If, cultivated on superior locations, such as Dingac and Postup, varies from those cultivated in the area of Peljesac and the South Dalmatian hinterland. The former, with its full-bodied, rich taste and firm personality can compete with some of the most famous international wines. The latter, being light and fruity, seem to fit to a completely different variety. The microclimate, characteristic of Peljesac inland, is one of the causes for such dissimilarity. Due to its significant height above sea level, Peljesac shows characteristics of the continental climate, such as typically cold nights, early spring frost and lower rate of exposure to sun, especially during spring and autumn. If Plavac mali is to achieve the top results, it is not to be cultivated on a very fertile soil. Therefore, the very central part of Peljesac, with its fertile and fecund soil, is not the most suitable location for the cultivation of Plavac. When evaluating Peljesac with other Croatian regions, it is interesting that, with few exceptions, the particular varieties are used for wine branding only in the cases of lower quality wines, while top quality ones declare just the specific location where the variety is cultivated, such as Dingac, Postup and Zuljana. Thus, it is usual that winemaker produces wines of different quality, depending not on the variety but on the location where is grown. However, despite the lower quality varieties from Peljesac inland, this region is still a leading producer of top quality red wines. Therefore, Plavac mali is most certainly the leading variety of Southern Dalmatia.

Marastina is considered to be of a far more well-balanced origin. Marastina does not require any specific location and is well acclimatized to various conditions. It is to be found along the whole Dalmatian coastline, even in the northern region nearby the island of Cres and is enormously popular in Southern Dalmatia, mainly on the islands of Lastovo and Korcula as well as in the Konavle region. It is characterized by having a very good absorption of sugar and is used in the production of medium bodied, crisp wines. Posip, Grk and Malvazija dubrovacka are considered to be highest quality white varieties. Posip is a variety of remarkable potential, whose market quality has been well established. Therefore, it shows a constant increase in production. It originates from the island of Korcula, where it is most frequently cultivated. As a cross of Bratkovina and Zlatarica, Posip is characterized by a high sugar level up to 25 grams per litre, specific extract and solid level of acidity. With correct cultivation and wine making, this varietal provides a rich, full-bodied but still refreshing wines of enjoyable flavor. Alongside Chardonnay and Malvazija Istarska, this is the only white varietal, whose fermentation in barrique barrels does not shade but compliments the original flavor. The fact that Grk and Malvazija are controlled to very limited areas of cultivation does not reduce their quality. Grk is a variety, which is well adapted to sandy soil around the town of Lumbarda on the island of Korcula. Malvasija, on the other hand, is very similar to its Mediterranean variety, although, due to its isolation, it developed its specific, local characteristics. Grk reflects its Mediterranean temperament at is best when served as a dry, bitter, full-bodied wine of strong flavor whereas Malvasija characteristics are most striking when it is dry and served as a sweet wine.

Dalmatia

Northern Dalmatia, Central and Southern Dalmatia as well as Dalmatian Zagora are three major Dalmatian sub-regions. Vineyards in Northern Dalmatia, with the exception of the Primosten wine-growing hills, are situated away from the coastline. Wines of the region are therefore crisper when compared with those produced in Southern Croatia, but do not show the characteristics of a continental climate, which is so typical of the wines from Dalmatian Zagora. Central and Southern Dalmatia, two typical Mediterranean regions, grows almost exclusively vines of local origin. A centuries long adaptation to climate and soil enables these to thrive on the sunny slopes overlooking the sea. Historically speaking, Dalmatian Zagora was more locally oriented and conducted most of its trading activities with Bosnia and Herzegovina, whilst coastal Dalmatia, having at that time a thriving shipbuilding industry, exported its wines to various European countries. Therefore, those three sub-regions offer a wide variety. Red wines of the Rhone Syrah and Grenache were very successfully domesticated in Northern Dalmatia. This region provided an excellent environment not only for Plavina the local varietal, but also for white Debit and Marastina. Dalmatian Zagora, (or Imotsko polje to be more specific), is dominated by the local Kujundzusa, whose mild and gentle wines provide some 90% of total wine production in the area. The coastal region provides an excellent environment for red wines such as Plavac mali, Babic, and more recently, Zinfandel (Croatian crljenak). Some of the best white wine in Croatia, for example Posip, are grown on the island of Korcula.

Developments and Traditions of Wine Culture in Croatia

Croatia enjoys a highly developed viticultural tradition, enabling its people to recognise and enjoy quality wines. For several generations, wine was far more than the means of meeting personal existential needs. The wine trade was a secondary result of family weekend reunions in small vineyards, implying that only wines, which were not intended for personal use, would have been sold. “A true Northerner never sells his wine – he drinks it with his colleagues”. These lines in a traditional song from the Croatian north western region relates wine consumption to friendly reunions. Statistical data may not be as humourous as the above line, but are even more convincing. Almost half of Croatian vineyards do not hold a licence to sell wine. Hence, most of their production is for personal use only. Croats are very passionate about wine. Almost half the total wine production never reaches the market, but is for personal use only Local wine brands, intended for the general market, are still relatively unknown internationally, as Croatian wine exports have not been significantly encouraged for decades. The end of the Yugoslavian federation created new borderlines. Hence, wines from former republics, long considered to be local, had to be imported and were therefore made less available. The Croatian wine industry took advantage of this situation, showing steady annual growth. However, local production, which was seriously hampered by the War of Independence, could not meet the needs of the local market due to increased consumption. Only after long-term investment into vineyards on a larger scale, was the first wine surplus obtained, therefore creating opportunities for export.

Kujundzusa

pronounced: ku-iun-dju-sha

The origin of Kujundzusa is unknown but it is considered to be a local varietal. According to tradition, it was named after a Turkish word (golden) that describes the golden colour of the grape at its mature stage, and according to another, after the family name Kujundzic, as one of its first producers. It is grown exclusively in the sub-region of Dalmatinska Zagora, surrounding the town of Imotski. Like Zlahtina, it gives gentle wines with milder acids so, due to its mild character, it is easily drunk and very popular in its region of origin, where its vineyard representation amounts to as much as 90%. Its aroma is discrete, featuring gentle fruit traces blended with mild minerals. A gentle flavour, with alcohol varying from 11% to 12% and not overly prominent acids.

Vugava

pronounced: vu-ga-va

The origin of Vugava is unknown, but it is considered to be a local and very old varietal and its appearance can be traced back to ancient times. Apart from Plavac mali it is the most mentioned Dalmatian varietal in international guides and atlases but its glory is disproportionate to today’s massmarket interests. The reason lies in the fact that it most often reaches the market in the traditional form, with very high sugar content and overripe aromas, the characteristics not currently ‘in’. It is cultivated exclusively on the island of Vis.

Skrlet

pronounced: sh-kr-let

A local varietal of continental origin, it is grown in a narrow area of the central Croatia sub-region, mostly in the wineproducing region of Moslavina. Skrlet is the continental equivalent of Zlahtina, a slightly more discrete aroma and a slightly higher in acids. Lively and light wines with alcohol varying from 12.5% and served as ideal summer wine, which is also when they reach their full shape. A life cycle of an average Škrlet stretches over two years at most, but it is best to use during the first. Due to a very fine, although discrete aroma and a refreshing character, it goes extraordinarily well with food, especially light, summer dishes. During the past few years, in conjunction with the increasing popularity of local varietals, the popularity of  Skrlet and, subsequently, its cultivation have also risen but it does not go beyond its region of origin for the moment.

Grk

pronounced: gr-k

Another treasure from the treasury of Croatian local varietals. It is mainly grown on the island of Korcula and production levels are very low. It is difficult to cultivate, since its flower is unisexual, functionally female, so it should be planted with another pollinator varietal, and on Korcula this role is most often reserved for the popular varietal of Plavac mali. Due to this rare phenomenon, the Grk cluster is often full of stunted grapes, giving it a specific appearance. It produces strong and full wines when dry, and is occasionally also used for Prosek – the Dalmatian type of dessert wine.

 

 

 

Debit

pronounced: de-bit

 Once a highly appreciated variety, its habitat was in danger of extinction by war activities, which thus made production reach an all-time low in the 1990’s. Today its reputation and vineyard representation are on the rise again. Tradition says that it was named after a tax that had to be paid in wine. The wine made from Debit was of good quality, the authorities insisted on using precisely this varietal to settle the debt. There are similar examples in other parts of Dalmatia; Plavac mali, for example, is called Pagadebit (pagare debt) on Korcula. Of all Dalmatian varietals Debit has the best ratio of acids and sugars so it most often gives the only Dalmatian white wine a refreshing character. This fresh character is partly also due to its situation. Specifically, the Debit vineyards are not by the seaside but in the hinterland of Dalmatia, in the inland area behind Sibenik and Skradin, where night temperatures are considerably lower than those on the coast.